Seaglass Tank Top – Free Crochet Pattern
The Seaglass Tank Top is a pretty top to wear alone or layered under your favorite jacket, it can be worn year round. The colors in this yarn are gorgeous, it will be hard to make just one. It’s easy to customize the length of the sweater to get that perfect fit.
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Seaglass Tank Top
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Originally I began from the center with the turquoise color, but when I decided to make it bottom up, I started over with the green first. I wanted the blue color near the top of the sweater, but it’s a personal preference to start with the color on the inside or outside of the cake, it doesn’t affect the pattern.
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The Seaglass Tank Top is made bottom up in a continuous, easy pattern repeat. There aren’t any visible seams in this design, which I love. If you prefer a shorter top, simply adjust the number of rows in the pattern repeat to your liking. To adjust the strap length choose the measurement that fits you, select the size, and make that number of chains. If you do so, please note that the number of clusters will be different than stated in pattern.
Pattern Starts Here
Skill Level: Intermediate
Sizes: Small – Xtra Large
Supplies:
Yarn: Red Heart – It’s A Wrap Rainbow 1(1,2,2) cakes
Color: Seaglass
Hook: H (5.00 mm)
Stitch Markers: Qty (4)
Tape Measure
Yarn needle
Yarn Information:
Red Heart – It’s A Wrap Rainbow
Yarn Weight: 2 – Fine
Yarn Cake: 623 yards / 570 meters
Unit Weight: 150 grams (5.29 ounces)
Fibers: 55% Acrylic, 45% Cotton
Care: Machine wash cold, gentle cycle. Lay flat to dry.
Abbreviations: In US Terminology
ch(s) – chain(s)
dc – double crochet
fdsc – foundation single crochet
sc – single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Special Stitches:
Cluster: 5 dc in same stitch = 1 cluster.
Gauge: 2 ½ clusters plus 2 sc x 9 rows = 4 inches.
Measurement:
Small: 32” x 23”
Medium: 36” x 27 “
Large: 39” x 29”
XLarge: 43” x 31.5”
Notes:
1. Worked in Rows, join, and turn after each row.
2. Chain 3 at beginning of row counts as 1 double crochet.
3. Made bottom up.
4. Leave a six inch tail to begin, to connect the first and last fdsc, or sc, stitches together.
Body:
Row 1: Fdsc 108(120,132,144) sl st to beginning fdsc, careful not to twist work. Close the small gap with the 6 inch tail on Row 1 by connecting the first and last fdsc together.
Alternate Row 1: Ch 109 (121,133,145), 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each remaining ch across, sl st to beginning sc, careful not to twist work. Close the small gap with the 6 inch tail on Row 1 by connecting the first and last sc together.
Row 2: (Do not turn), ch 1, 1 sc in same st, skip 2 sts, *1 cluster in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts*, end with 1 cluster in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st to beginning sc. (18,20,22,24 clusters).
Row 3: Ch 3, turn, (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same st, *skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, cluster in next st*, repeat *-* around, end with skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, sl st to top of ch 3. (18,20,22,24 clusters).
Row 4: Turn, sl st into sc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same st, *skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, cluster in next st*, repeat *-* around, end with skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, sl st to top of ch 3. (18,20,22,24 clusters).
Rows 5 – 37(39,41,43): Repeat Row 4 until desired length from waist to underarm.
Straps:
Notes:
1. Double check you have the same number of clusters in each section on the front and back, and under both arms after placing the 4 stitch markers.
2. The first sc stitch after making the chains for straps is placed in the same st as the next stitch marker.
3. The last cluster and sc are worked over the sl sts at beginning of row.
Row 38(40,42,44): Turn, sl st in next 4 sts, place 1st stitch marker in same st (3rd dc of cluster) skip 2(3,3,4) clusters, place 2nd stitch marker in 3rd dc of next cluster, skip 5(5,6,6) clusters, place 3rd stitch marker in 3rd dc of next cluster, skip 2(3,3, 4) clusters, place 4th stitch marker in 3rd dc of next cluster, *ch 41(53,65,77), skip to next stitch marker, begin first sc in stitch marker, [skip 2 sts, cluster in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st] to next stitch marker, then repeat from *, end with skip 2 sts, 1 cluster in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st (in same st as 1st stitch marker). (12,12,14,14 clusters, 2-straps 41,53,65,77 chains in each strap).
Note: Part of this row the pattern repeat is worked into the WS of chains for straps.
Row 39(41,43,45): Turn, sl st into sc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 4 dc in same st, *skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 cluster in next st*, repeat *-*, end with skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st to top of ch 3. (26,30,36,40 clusters).
Row 40(42,44,46): Repeat Row 4. (26,30,36,40 clusters).
Note: Cluster changes from 5dc to 3dc in a few stitches on next row, cinching in the neckline area.
Row 41(43,45,47): Turn, sl st into sc, ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in same st, [skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 3 dc in next st]7, 7, 8, 8 times, [skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 cluster in next st] 4, 6, 8, 10 times, [skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 3 dc in next st] 9, 9, 10, 10 times, [skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 cluster in next st] 4, 6, 8, 10 times, end with skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, skip 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, sl st to top of ch 3.
Row 42(44,46,48): Turn, ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each stitch around, sl st to beginning sc. End off yarn, weave in ends, remove stitch markers.
End of Pattern
I love the colors in this yarn, the green, blue and turquoise colors are vibrant and flow nicely from one color to the next. It is a fine yarn but I chose an H hook to give it a loose, nice drape. Shown here with my hook size stitch marker, they really come in handy if you put away a project for a while and can’t remember what size hook you were using…
see how I made them here.
Shown here with some neutral flip flops, jean shorts, flower necklace and matching sunglasses.
I hope you enjoy this pattern.
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Copyright ©2019 The Purple Poncho. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, videotaping, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission from the author, designer Carolyn Calderon. Please feel free to sell finished items made from my patterns and a link back to www.thepurpleponcho.com for pattern credit would be most appreciated. Do not re-post or claim this pattern or photographs as your own. If you have any questions, please contact me HERE and I will be happy to help.